Instructions
Start a MapWhen Dungeonographer launches, you'll see a screen that asks you how many squares high and wide your map will be as well as each square's width and height and pixels. (Note that no matter what you set a square's width and height, your map can be enlarged and usually will get extra detail.) You also can select the default tile to fill the map with. You may choose "blank" or "Stone Floor" or whatever. But when I'm building a dungeon I usually set it to "Stone Filled" and my first step in editing the map is to carve out where the rooms and corridors are. So if you're folllowing these instructions as a tutorial, set the "Select Solid Terrain" to "Stone Filled" and leave the other settings as their defaults. |
![]() |
![]() | |
Select the Floor TilesBefore I start editing the map, I like to work in the "semi-realistic" (aka "battlemat") mode. Some things are a bit more obvious in that mode. But Dungeonographer starts in the "classic" (aka "simple") mode. Look below the map for radio buttons "Line Art/Classic" and "Semi-realistic/battlemat" and choose the second option. Your Floor Tiles to the right of the map will now look like stone, wood, earth, and tiled floors. Select a floor style that matches the dungeon you have in mind. In this totorial, I'm picking "Stone Floor (lt)." (Levae your mouse over each of the picture buttons to see the name.) Once you've clicked it, click one the map to make that square match your selected floor tile. Dragging over squares also works. |
![]() |
![]() | |
Draw WallsNext you can draw in walls. Note that if you're only ever going to use the simple/classic icon set, this step may be unnecessary except to close off corridors. Go to the "Walls/Lines" tab on the far right and select it. Then choose the "Snap-to-vertex Dark Rock Wall." Again, leaving your mouse over a button will give you the name, but it is a dark gray line that is two straight line segments. Click on the map where you want the corner of one wall. Click next to the next corner. And the next and so on. Each time you click, a straight line should appear between your last click and your new click. And because we selected a snap-to-vertex line type, the program anchors our click to the nearest of four points across the square and four points up-and-down the square (0%, 25%, 50%, and 75%, with 100% being the beginning of the next square.) If your line doesn't go exactly where you wnat it, you can always click the "Remove last point" button on the right. You can also edit the line in many more ways by clicking "Select Line" on the right and reading the edit instructions on the bottom of the window, but in breif your slected line will have a small circle added for each point and:
| ![]() |
Add Objects (Doors, tables, beds, chairs, etc.)Select the "Objects" tab on the far right. Select the "Snap to Grid Quadrant" checkbox. This works like the "Snap to vertex" line mentioned above by anchoring the center of any object you place to the 0%, 25%, 50%, and 75% points across and up-and-down a square. Place a door by clicking the "Door, Wood" button then clicking the middle of a horizontal wall. Place more horizontal walls. Now go to the "Rotation" spinner on the right and enter "90". This will cause our next object to be rotated 90 degrees. Click where you need a vertical door on the map. Finish your doors. Click the "Bed, Double" icon. Uncheck the "Snap to Grid Quadrant" checkbox. You probably noticed that a copy of the map object you select attaches itself to your mouse when you move over the map. Now that the "Snap to Grid Quadrant" is off, the object will be placed exactly as it is attached to your mouse when you click. You can also play with the rotation and width and height selectors and see that when you move your mouse over the map. You can set the bed to 150% wide and high in case this is an ogre's bed, for eaxmple. Experiment with adding other objects. If you want to resize or rotate an object after it was placed, click the "Select Map Item" button. All the map objects will get little yellow squares in the middle. Click the yellow square of the map object you wish to edit. The yellow square becomes blue when you select it. Changing the settings will now cause that object to change. Delete the object by clicking the "Delete Selected" button. Finally sometimes you may want to move an object behind/below or in front of/above another object. For example, maybe you placed a table then the chairs, but some chairs are partially over the table. Select the table and click the "Move selected object to front" button to fix this. Or if you need to move something to the back, click the "Move selected object to back" button. You can also always toggle back to classic/simple mode by going to "Options" and then "Icon Versions." This is helpful to do because sometimes some object details aren't as obvious in one mode or the other. | ![]() |
Notes
Click the "Add Note" button below the map. Next click a square which will display the number matching your note. A dialog will appear where you may enter a title and description. The first word of your title will be placed in the square of your map, so title your note "1 Entrance Chamber" and enter some details in the description. Click "Save" and then close the dialog. A "1" will appear on the map in the square you clicked.
Advanced Feature: Shapes
Click on the "Shapes" tab to create circular and irregular rooms. To create a circular room:
- Prior to working with the shapes tab, add floor tiles that completely cover the area where your circle/oval will be placed.
- Click the "Oval" button on the Shapes tab. Then set the properties. Set the border to "Texture Border" and choose teh border texture that matches the wall texture you are using. Set the border widht to between 6 and 8. Set it to "No Fill".
- Imagine the box that will bound your oval/circle. Click where one corner should be and drag to the opposite corner. Youre oval/circle should appear and change in size as you drag.
- Click "Select Shape" then click a corner of the circle's box to edit the properties. You should now be able to adjust the circle's border, fill opacity or whatever.
- The "Start Angle" and "Angle Extent" and "Closure" allow you to have incomplete circles/ovals. The extent is the number of degrees of the circle that will have a border. The start angle is where the circle border begins. The closure describes how the fill is affected by the opening.
- Next we're going to cover up one corner outside of the circle where there are floor tiles showing. Click the "Polygon" button.
- Set the border width to 0, the fill to "Color Fill" and the fill color should be "Stone filled." Opacity should be 100.
- Click on the map well outside of where you initially clicked to create this circle. Now click outside of where the circluar wall touches a stone filled tile. Next click a few times along the wall. Do this until you get to the next area where the circular wall meets a stone filled tile. Finally click in a stone filled tile.
- You should now have one corner outside your circle/oval covered, although part of the wall may also be covered. Click the "Move Shape to Back" (you may need to select it first) to fix this. Or select the circle/oval and move it to the back.
- Repeat the above step for the other corners outside your circle/oval.
To create an irregular room:
- Prior to working with the shapes tab, add floor tiles that completely cover the area where your irregular room will be placed.
- Click the "Polygon" button. Set the border width to "o" the fill to "Color Fill" and the fill color should be set to match your filled map areas (probably "Stone filled.")
- Imagine a polygon covering part of the area such that one side of the polygon will form a wall of the room and the other side will overlap with already filled in areas. Now click on the map in a part of that imaginary polygon that is over an already filled in ("stone filled") area.
- Next, click or drag to get close to where the polygon becomes a wall of the irregular room. Then continue clicking or dragging to form that wall then move to an already filled in area.
- That should make one part of the irregular room complete. Repeat this for the other areas of the room.
Note that the Video Tutorial is probably especially helpful for this feature.
Advanced Feature: Custom Map Objects
To add your own map objects to the system, go to the "Options" menu and choose "Add Custom Map Object." A window will appear asking you to name the object, and give a filename for a simple version of the object and a semi-realistic version.
The new map object will appear on the "Objects" tab, but after all of the other map objects and after the other controls (Move to front/back, Delete selected, etc.)
For sizing purposes, the simple version should be 75 pixels wide and high if the object is a one square by one square object. The semi-realistic version should be 300 pixels wide and high if it is one square by one square. If the object should be bigger than one square, size it to be proportional such that 75 pixels is one square width/height in simple mode and 300 pixels is one square widht/height in semi-realistic mode.
All images must be PNG files.
Advanced Feature: Custom Floor Tiles
To add floor tiles, go to the "Options" menu and select "Add/Edit/Remove Custom Terrain". A dialog will appear. Select "Add" and then fill in the rest of the dialog. The new floor tile will appear on the "Floor Tiles" tab after all other buttons.
Order the Pro Version!Your license & download details will be automatically emailed to your paypal/google checkout email address within minutes. If you don't get them promptly, please check any spam filters and then email support at inkwellideas dot com. The Pro version allows you to:
Because the license is emailed to you, please make sure your Paypal/Google Checkout email address is correct/up to date.
See Also: End User License Agreement | ||||||
Quotes/Reviews for Hexographer"This program does everything I need an overland, hex-based mapping program to do. It allows me to produce high-quality, visually appealing maps with a minimum of effort and a very small learning curve... There is a forum for the program, and the support from [the developer] is outstanding." Full Review --Bob, Back to the Keep "Hexographer is a great, quickly acquired and configured, utility-rich cartography tool with an intuitive, beginner-friendly interface, and a very accessible price-point." Full Review --Ben McFarland, Kobold Quarterly "Within 15 minutes, I had drawn the terrain for my current campaign. In under an hour, the towns, roads, and rivers were added. The intuitive interface really made things simple, and the maps had an 'old school' vibe that reminded me of the original maps from the 1980s World of Greyhawk campaign setting." Full Review --Kurt "Telas" Schneider of Gnome Stew. "Whatever you play, look at Hexographer." --Frank Mentzer "I own [two other more expensive fantasy map programs] and got more done in my first couple of hours with Hexographer than I did after days with either of the those programs. I really appreciate the simplicity of Hexographer's user interface and I'm looking forward to seeing what I can do with it and where you take it. --Michael S-J. "It is the single most useful piece of mapping software for both fantasy world campaigns and sci-fi starmapping." --Maria F. "Hexographer is the best hex mapping software I've seen. Ever. It's highly customisable, it includes a bevy of useful features, it's regularly updated, and it's very easy to use... If you're one of the many GMs who liked hex maps all along, but couldn't find the right software to make them, Hexographer is the tool you've been looking for." Full Review --The Welsh Piper "Hexographer is a great little web-based java application that does exactly what it advertises - it allows you to quickly create hex maps in the older edition style - and it does it in a pretty easy to use interface... I've been able to use this hex [map] editor for both of my campaigns and I've been quite pleased at the results. I'm also REALLY psyched because I have run this in both Windows and Ubuntu..." --Michael Shorten (Chgowiz) |


















